Chef Craig Harding and partner Alexandra Hutchison perch on the counter at their Dundas Street restaurant.

Campagna in Italian means country. Campagnolo, then, roughly translates to country bumpkin. Part of the Sunday dinner school – the wave of young chefs paying tribute to their grandmothers’ cooking – Craig Harding has created a restaurant in homage to his Venetian nonna.

The locale is unabashedly low-rent (a former Coffee Time outlet redesigned by Harding’s partner, HGTV’s Alexandra Hutchison), located in what has become Toronto’s Meateating District, thanks in part to Harding’s friends at the nearby Black Hoof. Fortunately for a city that doesn’t need another authenticity-obsessed trattoria, Campagnolo is really very cosmopolita. The easygoing wine list is just as likely to unearth a Bastardo as a Barolo. The clarified Caesar cocktail is Roman in name only. And where a paesano would offer crudo, Harding is comfortable calling it ceviche (of grouper with sweet peppers and lemon balm).

Still, the backbone of the revolving menu is Italian, and Harding demonstrates that wonderful genetic predisposition for preparing bitter ingredients with grace. Radicchio, radishes and escarole are set off with unexpected hits of charcoal smoke from grilled nectarines. A vibrant arugula sauce underscores buoyant squid and a perfectly crusted, ink-stained arancino. If there’s a signature dish, it’s Ontario burrata with roasted grapes, puckered but still clinging to the vine, chives and garlic-rubbed toast. Just as decadent, a dessert of salted caramel budino inspires instant wistfulness.

With all due respect to Harding’s grandma, this isn’t cucina della nonna. It’s youthful, loose, sophisticated and at its best when relaxed – more like an Italian on vacation.

In The Weeds – trailer from Francis Mitchell on Vimeo.

.

Check out the rest of her great work @ http://tabithadraws.blogspot.com/

Monday, February 14, 2011

To Start

House-made Baguette and Gougères

Warm Olives

1st Course

Fresh Burrata Cheese
and Roasted Grapes with Toasted Bread

or

Seared Diver Scallop with Sunchoke Puree and Osetra Caviar

Pasta Course

Pappardelle with Rabbit and Honey Mushrooms

Or

Lobster Agnolotti with a Lemon Brown Butter

Mains

Duck Confit with Savoy Cabbage and Purple Mustard

Or

Elora Partridge Stuffed with Orange and Proscuitto
With Grilled Figs and Treviso

Or

Ontario Lamb Chops with Golden Beets
Celeriac Purée and Cherry Balsamic

Chef has some special menu additions for the occasion and has the new playlists ready to go!

Please call for reservatons 416 364 4785. 2 seatings available 6-7pm or 8:30- 9:30.

We look forward to a great night with new friends and neighbours!